How to get there:
Citaltépetl is located between Mexico City and Veracruz. Our
approach involved a public bus, a taxi (to Tlachichuca) and
a jeep in that order. We barely made it from Mexico City to the
mountain hut in one long day, travel may have improved since then.
There was rockfall blocking the jeep road and we ended up hiking
the last part of the road to the hut.
The mountain hut (Piedra Grande Hut) is quite big, and a contrast
to our feeling of being the only Europeans in Mexico. There were
a surprising number of
climbers from many nations at the hut when we arrived. Route description:
We started around 2am since some Swiss team had us wake up around
1am. This turned out to be way early with the result that we
climbed too high too early and was hit hard by a very cold, strong wind
just before sunset.
The conditions depends on the snow. When we climbed the snow
was near perfect, no need to use a rope, individual crampons and
ice axe were quite adequate. We reached the summit quite early and
by then the sun was warm(er) allowing us more than one hour at the top.
We made it all the way back to Mexico City the same day, that is,
a two day trip for the full climb. Comments:
This is a very nice, high climb. One can see the Gulf of Mexico
from the summit. Being fairly isolated, the impression of being
in an airplane looking down is perhaps the best way to describe
the feeling one has at the top.
There seems to be considerable uncertainty with respect to the
elevation of this peak.
The peak is listed
with elevation in the range from 5611 to 5700 meter according to
different sources of information. Until more reliable information
emerges I will list it at 5636 meter.
Somebody with a GPS should be able to
at least get a fairly accurate estimate, please email me.
I now have a report from 2007, where a GPS measurement showed
5643 m, fairly consistent with the 5636 m value.
There are three saddles, two in northern British Columbia and
one in the Yuon Territory, all close to 710 meter, more careful
investigation is needed.
