Cerro El Mela

  • Cerro El Mela
  • 4160 m
  • Prominence 2917 m
  • Argentina
  • Location: South 28.86722, West 067.12685 (GPS)
  • Difficulty: YDS class 3
  • Attempted January 11-14. 2023.
  • Climbed November 16-20, summit 18th. 2024.

Information:


Introduction:
This fairly "obscure" mountain is the highest point of a pretty large mountain plateau that is near 4000 meter of elevation. The mountain ranks as number 107 in the world by prominence. Despite of this, the amount of information on the Internet was extremely limited. After extensive searching I was able to contact Leonardo Guzman. He has walked quite a lot across this mountain and was able to provide some useful information about possible trailheads.
How to get there:
A good point of reference is Tucuman. The closest town is Aimogasta. Follow Hwy. 75 south from Aimogasta to location S28.96523, W67.00047, take the smaller side road right at this point. Follow this road approximately 1.5 kilometer. Park under a tree on your right hand side. The trail starts here, on the opposite side of the road.
Route:
An outline of most of the route can be seen here.
Follow the pretty big trail uphill. It will cross (right) near the top of the ridge, then traverse in the hillside high above the valley floor on your right. A small descent near the end and you will cross a small drainage. There was water here in January 2023, but the spot was completely dry in November 2024. Continue to follow the bigger trail on the opposite side. This trail will lead you to an old shepherd's hut. This location is S028.97138, W067.05626, elevation around 2580 meter.
There is a creek with reliable water running in a small canyon right next to this location. The route descends to this creek and makes an ascending traverse on the opposite side going hikers right. However, it can be difficult to locate the trail in this area. The best advice may be to follow the main trail from the hut down to the creek, there is a small pond here. Cross the creek above a small waterfall, head directly up some slabs, then do a short, ascending bushwack, one should traverse left while ascending. You will then soon hit a small trail that ascends right. The terrain improves as soon as you are out of the creek canyon.
The next objective is to hike to the base of the two distinct ridges that connects the high plateau with this intermediate area. There are several trails, often marked with cairns, but none of them seem to connect all the way. The route will cross several big gullys, the key is to follow a good trail each time you descend into a gully.
There are some old stone walls (ruins) located below the two ridges. This is a pretty good location for a camp if one is wanted near the base of the ridge. Both ridges may be used for ascending, the first one is perhaps slightly easier, it is also the closest, so should be preferred. The upper part of this ridge is a bit rougher, but at this point one should be able to move off the ridge (hikers right) and continue uphill on easier ground. The route next crosses a small plateau and some rocks before arriving at the base of a final slope extending down from a high ridge. One should do an ascending traverse uphill while going left in order to finally reach a key col located at S28.95367, W067.11564. This passage is only slightly below 4000 meter.
The next section is more easy, descending while keeping a bit right. Continue to a small valley at location S28.94495, W67.12299. In January, this site had a good creek with water, but in November the creek was dry. Fortunately, a very limited amount of water could still be found.
From this location, one may day-hike the peak. However, putting the last camp a bit closer will make the summit day easier. For the route from here to the summit, consult the track posted on Peakbagger. This is a fairly long walk, more than 20 kilometer, mostly above 4000 meter of elevation.
Comments / Trip Reports:
First Attempt, January 11-14. 2023.
We drove in the morning, January 11., from Aimogasta and were ready to hike by 0830. We arrived at the Shepherds hut by 1300. After a rest by the creek we continued to the ruins near the base of the ridge, arriving there by 1600.
The next morning, we climbed the leftmost ridge (as seen from below). The weather was cloudy, but not too bad. We were carefully followed bu a large condor for about half an hour. We reached the high col and descended on the far side. We continued several more kilometer towards Cerro Mela and established camp at location S28.92048, W067.11799, elevation near 4000 meter. From here, we intended to climb the peak and most likely, move camp partway on our return route.
However, a big thunderstorm moved in and caused a very memorable night. Massive lightning, flash-boom strikes nearby. The tent was bombarded with hail. My partner complained about the low temperature, his sleeping bag did not provide the warmth that he expected. I offered him an extra wool shirt, but this did not help improve his somewhat pessimistic view on the situation. When the lightning finally subsided the next morning, we had 15 cm of new snow covering the ground. Not too deep to walk in, but obviously, things would take a bit more time. The fact that we were hit by snow and difficult conditions a few days earlier on Cerro Manchao did not help the overall morale.
It became clear that he did not want to spend a second night at similar elevation. Too bad, our second peak "failure" in a week. Thus, we broke camp and headed back down to our first camp at the base of the ridge. The only significant uphill on the way back was the ascent back to the col on the high ridge. We did visit the summit next to the high col on our way back. Unfortunately, it tuned out to be just below the 100 meter prominence level. The next morning, we had a fairly easy walk-out back down to the trailhead where Franco and the vehicle were waiting.
Second Try, November 16-20. 2024.
I was back in Argentina, this time with my good friend Helge. The purpose was to return to the two peaks that I failed to climb in January 2023. This time in November, spring time in Argentina. I decided to switch the order, ie. Mela would be our first objective. We flew to Tucuman and rented a "normal" car there. The two trailheads were known to be accesible with a normal car. In Tucuman, we first had a welcome dinner (with Franco) at La Querencia Parrilla, known for the famous Argentine Asado (Mixed meat Barbecue). The next morning, Helge and I had breakfast then drove directly to the trailhead.
We started hiking around 1500 and reached the shepherd's hut after 3:20. In fact, somewhat faster than in 2023. We established camp and had a nice evening before our first night on the mountain.
We left after breakfast, the first goal to reach the lower end of the ridge. This hike went very well, we were able to follow trails most of the way. Somehow, we passed the first ridge and ended up at the base of the second ridge. Ascending the ridge was hard work. Pretty easy on the lower part, but our route had passages of (YDS) class 3 scrambling in the upper section. Helge felt the change to high altitude and moved more slowly. However, we made steady progress and finally crossed the key col, just below 4000 meter, at 1715. Much easier from there, we still decided to camp near the first available water. Thus, I set course directly for the good sized creek that we had seen in 2023. Big surprise and concern when it turned out to be dry. Fortunately, a few small ponds of water still remained. We established camp around 1830. The sun was still hitting the nearby rocks, a pretty tough 10 hour day had come to an end.
The next day, we decided to do the summits from camp. It would be a pretty long day, possibly with very limited water. I would carry a backpack with water and reserve clothing, a pretty easy load. This trip has a fair amount of ups and down, it is a long hike mostly staying between 3900 and 4100 meter of elevation. See track posted on the Peakbagger web page. We had been hiking quite a long time before we started to see Melao. Mela is not visible until you are pretty close. We had started soon after daylight and made the summit of Mela at 1130. The return hike passed across the two summits of Cerro Melao, with brief stops at both locations. We made it back to camp after 11 hours of walking. We had started out with one liter of water each. This ran out before we were back. On the return hike, we first discovered some stationary water, I drank a bit, while Helge was able to still wait for a better looking supply. We were lucky and discovered a tiny stream that came directly out from the base of a small rock face. Building a small dam, we were able to collect good water. We had a late dinner and slept well, knowing that our goals were achieved. We noticed that heavy rain hit the tent a few times during night. The next morning I had a bad case of diarrhea. Helge had none of this, most likely due to the water. Fortunately, all back to normal after one day.
The next morning, we walked back across the high col, then descended the ridge. We decided to descend the other (rightmost when coming down) ridge, since I remembered it as somewhat easier. We descended on the left side of the "top ridge", like the previous year. However, this time we went too far and ended up too low and needed to traverse an exposed (YDS) class 3 area in order to get back to the ridge.
The rain that came the previous night made all vegetation wet. We both had completely wet boots and feet by the time we approached the creek near our first camp. The time was already close to 1600 when we reached the shepherd's hut. Helge was motivated to continue down, however, I was tired and felt that another 1000 meter down would be noticed by my knees. Thus, we quickly agreed to camp and spend another night and descend the next morning.
The next morning promised another nice day. We had a very pleasant hike back down to the car. The plan was now to travel to Amigasta, spend 2 nights there, then start our big second climb, this time of Cerro Manchao.

Elevation measurements of the 3 summits near Cerro el Mela:
As part of our trip, we wanted to measure the elevation of the tops as accurately as possible. We believe that there has been no previous accurate measurements. On some maps, a spot elevation of 4189 meter can be seen on Cerro Melao, but this seemed way to high. Satellite radar measurements indicated that Mela was the highest, perhaps a bit higher than 4150 meter.
We used a Garmin GPSmap67 calibrated by satellites only. Readings were also done using satellite data only (no barometer!). This unit receives data on two different (frequency) bands from 4 major GPS systems (GPS, Galileo, GLONASS, BeiDou). In addition, we sampled elevations using the Phyphox APP. from the University of Achen on an iPhone X. This gives access to the raw data from the iPhone. In particular, the ellipsoid elevation. Finally, we recorded tracks both with the GPS unit as well as with GAIA GPS on the iPhone.
The results are summarized as follows:

               Cerro el Mela.      Cerro Melao North.      Cerro Melao South.
               ----------------      -------------------     ---------------------
     GPS spot elevation:      4168 meter      4150 m          4159 meter
     Phyphox elevation:      4168 meter      na.             4159 meter
     Phyphox Ellipsoid :      4200 meter      na.             4191 meter
     Gaia track (highest):     4159 meter      4150 m.            4156 meter

We estimate (conservatively) that Cerro el Mela is 4160 meter and that Cerro Melao (south summit) is 4152 meter. An estimate for the north summit of Cerro Melao is 4150 meter. The col depth between the north and the south summit is approximately 40 meter. The col depth between Melao and Mela is about 110 meter. These values are in reasonably good agreement with satellite radar measurements.

Resources: