Mount Fairweather Trip Report, May 7th, 2011 - May 25th, 2011.

Copyright Petter Bjørstad, 2011, photos by Petter Bjørstad.


Before the Trip, The team.

A very brief overview of Mount Fairweather

Regulations and Reservations

Clothing, Boots, Huts and Climbing Gear:

Food and Cooking:

May 7., Day 1: Travel to Juneau.

I left home at 0500 and arrived at Juneau Hotel (via Amsterdam, Seattle, Kitchican, Sitka) at 1900 local time. That is, exactly 24 hours of travel.

May 8., Day 2: Visit Juneau.

Attempted Mount Juneau, brunch in Juneau (beagle place), then shopping.

May 9., Day 3: Travel to Haines.

Got to the ferry, met Gerry Roach. Arrived in Haines.

May 10., Day 4: Bad weather, a local hike.

Went hiking with Paul and Annie. No weather for flying.

May 11., Day 5: First attempt to fly in.

Tried to fly in, but Mount Fairweather was in thick clouds.

May 12., Day 6: Bad weather, a local climb.

Climbed Mount Ripinsky, still no weather for flying.

May 13., Day 7: Second attempt to fly in.

Tried to fly in, but had to turn around.

May 14., Day 8: Third attempt, we succeed.

Finally, we flew in and established Base Camp. Did a carry to ABC.

May 15., Day 9: Establish ABC.

Established Advanced Base Camp on the Mezzanine.

May 16., Day 10: We establish a route to the col.

Navigated up the icefall and fixed ropes to the very top of the col.

May 17., Day 11: Bad weather.

Bad weather, stayed in camp.

May 18., Day 12: Bad weather.

Bad weather, but did a hike down to Base Camp.

May 19., Day 13: Bad weather.

Gusty winds, we improved the snow walls.

May 20., Day 14: Bad weather.

Lots of new snow. We went to practice ice climbing.

May 21., Day 15: Bad weather.

White out conditions, when do we get improved weather?

May 22., Day 16: Improving trend.

Better conditions, but a small blizzard from 1200 until 1500. Nice evening.

May 23., Day 17: Summit attempt.

Started out at 0415 for the summit. Hit by a blizzard at 0900. Lost our cache. Turned back.

May 24., Day 18: I fly out.

I flew out with Drake, continued to Juneau with Wings of Alaska.

May 25., Day 19: Travel home.

Left Juneau at 0800, Seattle then Amsterdam.

May 26., Day 20: Arrival in Bergen.

Arrived in Bergen at 1400.

May 29., Day 23: Gerry and Chris climb to the summit!

Budget, what does a trip like this cost?

Further information, Contacts and Links:

Here follows a list of internet links and other appropriate contact information that may be useful for anybody that wants to plan and organize a trip to Mount Fairweather.

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