How to get there:
We drove from Bergen via Øvre Årdal and across the
mountain (toll) road to Turtagrø and across Sognefjellet to Leirdalen.
Driving time is between 4.5 and 5 hours.
We parked on a turnout about 6km along the (toll) road that
runs from highway 55 (Sognefjellsveien) into Leirdalen, this road
leads to the famous mountain hut Leirvassbu. Parking is just before
the crossing of a river that comes down from the left, also just after
the Geitsætri building on your left. Route description: First from the parking to the base of the ridge
The route starts out along the left (north) side of the river, then
steeply up the lower part of the ridge that climbs all the way to
the Dumhø plateau. After the initially short, steep
section, the ridge becomes very broad and the trail climbs a bit to
the left of the highest ridge line. We lost any distinct trail before
reaching 1500 meter of elevation and continued up along the broad
ridge. The upper part is talus, quite loose and slippery when we
did this climb.
The terrain is less steep above 1900 meter, but continues to climb
to about 2060 meter where a small cairn may be visible. You are now
on the Dumhø plateau, quite flat. Continue in the direction
of the highest point until an elevation of about 2150 meter, then
contour more to the right (east) in order to locate the more narrow
section connecting the Dumhø plateau with the very small, but
distinct peak called Vestre Skardstind. We camped close to, but
before this point at GPS coordinates N: 61.38.002 E: 008.14.950 at
elevation 2150 meter. Second, identification of the ridge with reference
to the pictures below
In order to describe the route, it is helpful to consider some
of the pictures below. In order to establish a frame of reference,
consider picture 6 below. From left to right, we can identify the
following: the saddle between Dumhø
and Skardstinden, the "rock wall", the south side of the first, steep
part of the ridge. Behind (and above) a rocky section in the picture
is "the side ridge", a ridge line that extends upwards towards the
main (east-west) Skardstinden ridge. Further to the right, near the
skyline, one can see a "small cliff" followed by two more distinct
cliff bands, "cliffband I" and "cliffband II". Further right is a snow
ridge (the main ridge) to the summit, and finally, far
right the distinct minor summit called "Nåla".
Several of these features can be seen in more detail on picture 7.
In picture 5, the Skardstinden ridge is seen from the north. From
right to left we can recognize the following: first, the flat part
of Dumhø that narrows and ends in the small peak Vestre
Skardstind, followed by the small, but distinct saddle before the
ridge climbs. The first, steep part of the ridge has the "rock wall"
behind, at the top of the following (less steep) section of the ridge
one will see the top part of "cliffband I" and "cliffband II". Above
"cliffband II", the ridge climbs more gently to the summit of
Skardstinden. Third, the climb to the summit
We did this climb in miserable weather and what can best be
described as full winter conditions. The following description
may reflect this.
The route below is a non-technical route, we climbed this without
using the rope we carried. Also, the route is well protected without
serious exposure. Under winter conditions the hardest section is
YDS class 4, additionally there are several class 3 sections. Summer
conditions may be slightly easier, but this remains to be checked.
From our camp (or the east side of the Dumhø) locate the flat,
distinct section that ends in the small (really minor) sub-peak called
Vestre Skardstind. Climb this point among large boulders. From this
point there is a good view of the main ridge as it rises steeply on the
other side of the saddle. Descend, still among large boulders, to the
saddle. From the saddle, contour on the right side of the first "hump"
on the ridge, then slightly down below the "rock wall". There are several
ledges here, stay below these and locate a possible route in a crack
near a large rock on the far side. See picture 3 below, here the ledges
and the rock wall are up to the left, Jan-Frode can be seen in the
crack. The climb up this crack is easy (YDS) class 3. Continue up on
a small ridge, stay at this elevation and traverse across a small
gully in front of you, in order to gain "the side ridge". This ridge
comes from above and continues down. Follow this ridge up among easy
rocks and boulders until just below a small saddle in the main
Skardstinden ridge. Do not go all the way to the saddle, but turn right
and contour just below the "small cliff" that has been described above.
Behind this, you will soon locate "cliffband I", this is a slanted,
characteristic cliff that comes down from the main ridge. Continue just
ridge climbs. The first, steep part of the ridge has the "rock wall"
behind, at the top of the following (less steep) section of the ridge
one will see the top part of "cliffband I" and "cliffband II". Above
"cliffband II", the ridge climbs more gently to the summit of
Skardstinden. Third, the climb to the summit
We did this climb in miserable weather and what can best be
described as full winter conditions. The following description
may reflect this.
The route below is a non-technical route, we climbed this without
using the rope we carried. Also, the route is well protected without
serious exposure. Under winter conditions the hardest section is
YDS class 4, additionally there are several class 3 sections. Summer
conditions may be slightly easier, but this remains to be checked.
From our camp (or the east side of the Dumhø) locate the flat,
distinct section that ends in the small (really minor) sub-peak called
Vestre Skardstind. Climb this point among large boulders. From this
point there is a good view of the main ridge as it rises steeply on the
other side of the saddle. Descend, still among large boulders, to the
saddle. From the saddle, contour on the right side of the first "hump"
on the ridge, then slightly down below the "rock wall". There are several
ledges here, stay below these and locate a possible route in a crack
near a large rock on the far side. See picture 3 below, here the ledges
and the rock wall are up to the left, Jan-Frode can be seen in the
crack. The climb up this crack is easy (YDS) class 3. Continue up on
a small ridge, stay at this elevation and traverse across a small
gully in front of you, in order to gain "the side ridge". This ridge
comes from above and continues down. Follow this ridge up among easy
rocks and boulders until just below a small saddle in the main
Skardstinden ridge. Do not go all the way to the saddle, but turn right
and contour just below the "small cliff" that has been described above.
Behind this, you will soon locate "cliffband I", this is a slanted,
characteristic cliff that comes down from the main ridge. Continue just
below this cliff, the terrain here is mixed class 2 with a few
short class 3 moves. You will subsequently arrive
at "cliffband II", a quite similar rock formation, however this continues
further down. This location has GPS coordinates
N: 61.38.003 E: 008.15.734. Consider this area, if you were to
continue below this cliff you would have to traverse a fairly steep
permanent snow field or follow the crack between the snow and the
cliffband. DO NOT attempt this alternative. Rather, turn left and CLIMB
UP along the broad ramp below the cliff (easy class 2). After about
30 meters, locate a distinct, slightly V-shaped cut in the cliff band
that goes right and all the way to the horizon above the cliff.
The route goes up this gully. It is well protected with minimal
exposure. There are two climbing sections, first a very short, slanted
pitch, then a slightly longer one. This section is class 4. It is short,
but possibly with few and small handholds. The area was covered by a
thin layer of snow, it is therefore difficult to know how much
easier this section may be in summer conditions. Follow this gully
all the way up, then contour around a small rock formation. Behind
these rocks, one can easily (class 2) continue up among rocks and
boulders. Continue up until the main ridge is gained, then follow
the ridge to the summit cairn. The exposure to the north is dramatic. Comments:
I did this climb with Jan-Frode Myklebust. Winter had arrived,
as soon as we climbed above 1900m the ground was snow covered.
Higher up, we had up to 1/2 meter of snow. As the terrain and
the climb itself crosses areas with large rocks and bulders, one
never knows what will happen with a new step forward. Your leg
may stop firmly on a rock or fall (uncontrolled) between the rocks.
We hiked up on Dumhø and close to the beginning of the
ridge on Saturday in 4.5 hours, camping at the
GPS coordinates N: 61.38.002 E: 008.14.950, with an elevation of
2150 meter. The next day we climbed to the summit in about 3.5
hours, stayed there for about 15 minutes before returning to the
tent in about 1.5 hours. The straight line distance
from the tent to the summit was measured to about 881 meter, while
the actual route may have been about 1200 meter.
Winter conditions may have hidden foot
and hand holds that might be obvious in summer.
The weather was very foggy, almost no visibility made route finding
difficult.
Resources:
Images
Jan-Frode, we
have just started uphill from Geitsætri.
From the route,
Jan-Frode is climbing down a distinct crack.
Our tent
between Dumhø and the Skardstinden ridge, Jan-Frode is
up to the left, returning from the summit.
The Skardstinden ridge
as seen from the north. The very east part of Dumhø is
to the right (flat).
Skardstinden
as seen from the south. This picture is from May 2002. From left
to right:
the Dumhø mountain, the saddle connecting to the ridge,
the rock wall, the side ridge, cliffband I, cliffband II,
the summit, and to the right the characteristic Needle.
The route description will refer to this picture.
Skardstinden
from the south, zoom of the area from "the side ridge"
to the summit.