How to get there:
The easiest approach is from the Turtagrø hotel
located near one of the hairpin switchbacks in the
Sognefjell road. Route description:
From Turtagrø one hikes straight into the valley and
climbs the pass called `Bandet' at the very end. There is a self
serve DNT hut located at the pass. From here there are two main
routes with several variations.
A: The original first ascent route followed by Slingsby. This route
descends slightly from the pass and then follows a broad ledge calles
Berge's Chaussé across to the relatively steep Slingsby glacier.
This glacier can be quite crevassed and crampons, ice axe and rope is
needed in order to climb it. Above the glacier there is a short section
of easily passed rocks before a final, steep slope of snow that leads
all the way to the pass `Mohns skar' between Store Skagastølstinden
and Vesle Skagastølstinden. This slope can be very icy and care
is needed. We belayed in the rocks at the right hand side of the
snow field for the
final 50 meters to the pass.
This pass was named after Slingsby's companion Mohn, as he refused to
continue after having reached the pass on the first ascent. Slingsby
continued a solo climb to the summit. Technically, this climb is not
very hard when finding the best route, but there is considerable exposure.
The climb is rated a III using the Norwegian system. (Generally the
easiest rating for which a rope and proper belays are advised.)
B: This route is the shorter and more popular in order to climb the
summit. From the DNT hut one proceeds straight up the ridge, the
climb here is scrambling requiring the use of hands, but with many
large blocks, ledges and shelfs. The route gets steeper higher up
and one should stay far to the left in order to avoid a section
that has both exposure and requires roped belays. After this the route
angels to the right and one should locate a point called
`Hjørnet' (The corner), where the technical part of this
climb begins. Now follows four distinct sections.
i) The first part contours around the corner (to the right) and
descends a little to reach a distinct horizontal ledge.
ii) The second part follows the ledge.
iii) The third part climbs a few small sections, while continuing
to the right until one arrives at a nice shelf with a distinct
chimmney about 3 meters above it.
iv) The last section involves getting into the narrow chimmney
(named Heftye's Renne) and
climb it to the end, this is technically the most difficult
point rated a IV+ using the Norwegian system.
From the end of this section the climb contiues, but now less
steep and more like a scramble, until a final pitch to the very
summit that is again a bit more technical. Comments:
This mountain was first climbed by William Cecil Slingsby from England,
in 1876. This event is generally regarded as the beginning of
Norwegian climbing and mountaineering. Slingsby climbed solo from the
pass `Mohns skar' (see describtion above).
