Schwarzhorn

  • Schwarzhorn
  • 2928 m
  • Primary factor 966 m
  • Saddle: Grosse Scheidegg 1962 m (to Wetterhorn)
  • Grindelwald, Switzerland
  • Location: North 46.68572, East 8.07014
  • Climbed in July 1999

Information:

How to get there: Grindelwald (a small tourist/mountaineering village reached from Interlaken) is a good starting point.
Route description: One can hike from Grindelwald, or take the gondola to First, saving about 1000 vertical meters. Another possible starting point is the pass Grosse Scheidegg, served by bus from Grindelwald (no private cars). There are two routes. They separate above the point Schilt (2258m) which is the higher point on the trail between Grosse Scheidegg and First. The hiking route (bears right) involves little but walking, there is a single point after one gains the ridge that requires the use of hands with a slight exposure (this is YDS class 2+). The west ridge route (bears left) gains the Grosse Chrinne, a small saddle where the west ridge starts. The route quickly becomes technical if it had not been for the fixed ropes (wire ropes) and ladders that are bolted directly on the vertical cliff. There is significant exposure, not a route for a person with fear of heights. With the ladders I guess a difficulty of (YDS) class 3 is appropriate.
Comments: I climbed the west ridge (the Klettersteigen route) with my 10 year old son Paal. He did think it was scary! One should use a "Via Ferrata Kit", harness, sling and carabiner for safety on the steep section including the aluminium ladders that are bolted on the vertical rock face.

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