Mount Logan

  • Mount Logan
  • 5959 m.
  • Primary factor 5250 m.
  • Location: North 60:34.026, West 140:24.358 (GPS reading at the summit)
  • Highest in Canada
  • Difficulty: YDS class 2+, French Alpine PD
  • Climbed June 3. 2009

NOTE: This entry is incomplete, please come back later.


How to get there:
Route description: The short version is listed below, a more complete trip report is also available.

Day 0: We left Anchorage at 0800 on May 21. and travelled by van to the small place Chitna. There Paul Claus picked us up and flew us directly to the US - Canadian border where we created "BC / Camp 1" as well as a cache for our return trip.
Day 1: We skied to the base of Mount Logan, the beginning of the Kings Trench. Here we established our Camp 2.
Day 2: We skied up to the base of the only steeper section of the glacier in Kings Trench at about 3300 meter. Here we established our Camp 3.
Day 3: We continued up the steeper section, then a more gradual ascent to the top of Kings Trench at Kings Col. This is a key point in the route and the location of our Camp 4.
Day 4: Espen had symptons of AMS and needed a rest day. The rest of the team made a carry to an intermediate site in the Icefall above at elevation 4500 meter. We then returned to Camp 4.
Day 5: The full team made another carry to 4500 meter, then returned to Camp 4.
Day 6: We moved to Camp 5, established at 4500 meter.
Day 7: We crossed (bypassed) the big crevasse at 4700 meter and made a carry to Camp 6, established at the Footballfield, a big flat spot above the main crevasses of the Icefall. We then returned to Camp 5.
Day 8: We moved the team up to Camp 6 at 4850 meter.
Day 9: Espen is still not acclimatized, resting in Camp 6 and starting with Diamox. The rest of the team made a carry to Camp 7 at 5300 meter, located at a windy col directly below Prospectors Pass.
Day 10: The team decided to take one additional day of rest in Camp 6 (4850 meter) in order to improve the acclimatization process and in particular, monitor the required improvement for Espen.
Day 11: We moved the team up to camp 7, this will be the highest camp on the mountain.
Day 12: We crossed Prospector pass at 5533 meter, then descended 500 meter on the opposite side to establish Camp 8 at 5025 meter.
Day 13: June 3rd. This is our summit day. We started out at 0700 and reached the summit around 1400. The weather was clear, but windy. Descending back to Camp 8.
Day 14: We skied back up to Prospector Pass and descended to Camp 5, reaching it quite late in the evening.
Day 15: We continued our descent down to Camp 2.
Day 16: We returned across the glaciers to BC / Camp 1.
Day 17: Paul Claus picked us up shortly after 1100 and flew us to his lodge, the Ultima Thule.

Comments: I did this most memorable climb with Espen, Helge and Åke.
We continued our trip by also climbing Mount Blackburn.
We collected some medical information while on this trip.

We organized this as a completely private trip.