Location: South 32.38.723, West 70.05.074 (GPS at the summit)
Difficulty: YDS class 2+
Climbed January 31. 2002.
How to get there:
The coordinates for the summit is South 32.38.723, West 70.05.074,
this is my GPS measurement at the summit. The starting point for
this climb is Base Camp, Aconcagua, Plaza de Mulas.
See Aconcagua for more details. Route description:
Start out from the Hotel along the trail towards the pointed peak
Cerro Bonete. Follow this trail until the first large snow field
extending up on Catedral to the right. (There is a second snow field
further in the valley, this is supposed to be somewhat steeper,
but leads all the way to the summit.) This snow field is climbed
to the ridge connecting the forward (lower) summit with the higher
summit behind. From slightly below this ridge, go left and climb steeper
snow around (on the left) a cliff, this snow had a field of
Penitentes below on the left. More moderate snow now leads to a section
of rock. Climb this rock, first in a gully full of loose material, higher
up there is scree and easier ground. This climb leads to a new ridge
heading up and to the right. This is the edge of the larger snow field
mentioned above. The route now follows this ridge and climbs a bit steeper
snow onto what appears to be a snow covered, rounded summit. However,
this is not the summit. As soon as one reaches this top, one
can see the much more gentle climb that leads to the true summit.
The best route is to walk near the cliffs on the right, thus avoiding
the deeper snow. The route is class 3, using the YDS scale. Comments:
My son, Tor Erling, came along to the col between the forward
summit (facing Base Camp) and the higher ridge behind. He had
severe problems with snowballing crampons on the large snow
slope leading to the ridge.
The view of Aconcagua, Plaza de Mulas, the glaciers and Cuerno is
very good. In the opposite direction one sees the valleys and
lower mountains rolling towards the coast of Chile.