• Kizilkaya
  • 3771 m
  • Primary factor 2347 m
  • Location: North 40:22.327, West 112:11.349 (GPS at the summit)
  • Turkey
  • Difficulty: YDS class 4 or 5.3
  • Climbed: August 29, 2021


How to get there:
A good "base camp" for this peak is the nice accommodations provided by Recep Ince, called Aladaglar Camping. This oplace offers meals, separate rooms as well as a nice common area. The peak is in directly view from this place. The location is N37.82410 E35.05086. Thus, the trailhead area is located between the (larger) towns of Adena (south) and Kayseri (north).
From this location, one may drive a fairly good dirt road (high clearance recommended) to reach a good trailhead at location N37.81663, E035.11598, elevation about 2130 meter.
Route description:
From the parking, follow the trail that heads towards the main valley by first contouring above the camping area below (right) in order to cross the valley without much loss of elevation. The trail will merge with the slightly bigger trail coming up from the camping area. Next, the route ascends the valley, slightly steeper where the valley narrows, then zig-zag up and gaining a wider and more flat area. From here, you see Kizilkaya straight ahead. The route shall gain the col on the right hand side of the peak, obvious tracks (in the scree) will show the way. The upper part before the broad col is slightly steeper, but not difficult.
From the col, the route initially descends a little while getting more into the south face. Next, zig zag uphill moving from one ledge to the next. Everything is pretty much buried in loose rocks and care is needed. Aim for the distinct pinnacle that points into the air higher up. Just below this point of reference, move a bit right and find a very distinct gully that runs directly uphill. Enter and climb this gully. There is a single step in the gully that is (YDS) class 4, otherwise class 3.
The top of the gully connects to another set of ledges that can be used to zig-zag a bit higher. You will generally move a bit right (when facing uphill). Locate about 10 meter of (YDS) class 4 climbing that will reach another ledge. This climb may easily be protected. Next, moving more right, there is a final 3-4 meter pitch, also class 4, to make the top ridge. From here, a short walk to the summit.
I made this ascent together with Recep, the owner of Aladaglar Camping. We started at 0630 and made the summit at 1145. This included a 15 minute break where we found a safe place to wait while a party of 5 rappelled down. They had already sent a few dangerous rocks near us and we did not want any more.
The summit was nice and the view superb! We stayed on the top for 30 minutes before starting back down. One can descend a bit between the point where we ascended and the summit. Next follow a ledge (right) west to a big block with several (new) slings around it. From here, a 50 meter rope get you down to another ledge (ie. 25 meter below). The next anchor was part of the rock with a passage (a hole) behind it. We backed it up with a sling attached to a piton. Another rappel and we could zig zag back down to the top of the gully. Here, we made a short rappel as an alternative to down climb the step.
The rest of the descent back down to the col was uneventful, but still carried out with care. We were in the col about 1:45 after leaving the top. Another 2 hours brought us back to the car.
I stayed another night in Recep's place then drove to Elbistan in order to investigate an ascent of Nurhag Dagi.