Location: North 40:22.327, West 112:11.349 (GPS at the summit)
Difficulty: YDS class 4 or 5.3
Climbed: August 29, 2021
How to get there:
A good "base camp" for this peak is the nice accommodations provided by
Recep Ince, called Aladaglar Camping. This oplace offers meals, separate
rooms as well as a nice common area. The peak is in directly view from
this place. The location is N37.82410 E35.05086.
Thus, the trailhead area is located between the (larger) towns of Adena (south)
and Kayseri (north).
From this location, one may drive a fairly good dirt road (high clearance recommended)
to reach a good trailhead at location N37.81663, E035.11598, elevation about 2130 meter.
From the parking, follow the trail that heads towards the main valley by first contouring
above the camping area below (right) in order to cross the valley without much loss
of elevation. The trail will merge with the slightly bigger trail coming up from the
camping area. Next, the route ascends the valley, slightly steeper where the
valley narrows, then zig-zag up and gaining a wider and more flat area. From here, you
see Kizilkaya straight ahead. The route shall gain the col on the right hand side
of the peak, obvious tracks (in the scree) will show the way.
The upper part before the broad col is slightly steeper, but not difficult.
From the col, the route initially descends a little while getting more into the south face.
Next, zig zag uphill moving from one ledge to the next. Everything is pretty much buried
in loose rocks and care is needed. Aim for the distinct pinnacle that points into the air
higher up. Just below this point of reference, move a bit right and find a very distinct
gully that runs directly uphill. Enter and climb this gully. There is a single step
in the gully that is (YDS) class 4, otherwise class 3.
The top of the gully connects to another set of ledges that can be used to zig-zag
a bit higher. You will generally move a bit right (when facing uphill). Locate about
10 meter of (YDS) class 4 climbing that will reach another ledge. This climb may easily
be protected. Next, moving more right, there is a final 3-4 meter pitch, also class 4,
to make the top ridge. From here, a short walk to the summit.
I made this ascent together with Recep, the owner of
Aladaglar Camping. We started at 0630 and made the summit at 1145. This included
a 15 minute break where we found a safe place to wait while a party of 5 rappelled
down. They had already sent a few dangerous rocks near us and we did not want any more.
The summit was nice and the view superb! We
stayed on the top for 30 minutes before starting back down. One can descend a bit between the
point where we ascended and the summit. Next follow a ledge (right) west to a big block
with several (new) slings around it. From here, a 50 meter rope get you down to another
ledge (ie. 25 meter below). The next anchor was part of the rock with a passage (a hole)
behind it. We backed it up with a sling attached to a piton. Another rappel and we could zig
zag back down to the top of the gully. Here, we made a short rappel as an alternative
to down climb the step.
The rest of the descent back down to the col was uneventful, but still carried out with care.
We were in the col about 1:45 after leaving the top.
Another 2 hours brought us back to the car.
I stayed another night in Recep's place then drove to Elbistan in order to investigate
an ascent of Nurhag Dagi.