How to get there:
This summit can be approached from the huts Juvasshytta or Spiterstulen.
There are also alternate approaches, see our route below. Route description:
We started from our camp at Illåbandet at approximately 2100 m. For a route
description to this point, see the description under Storgjuvtinden (2144 m). From
our camp, we skied across Storgjuvbreen to the distinct break between Vesle Galdhøpiggen
and the 100 meter higher Galdhøpiggen (Norway's highest mountain). There is a passage
up here called Porten (the gate). This route is a steep snow gully that gains the Styggebreen
on the other side of the two mountains. From the top of Porten we continued along the east
side of Vesle Galdhøpiggen on the upper part of Styggebreen. Gaining elevation on the
glacier we located a point just about 4 meters below the cliff. At this point a small
horizontal traverse followed by a steep, but short snow climb brought us up on the very gentle
north slope of the summit. On descending, we considered following the ridge all the way down
to the saddle between Vesle Galdhøpiggen and Galdhøi, however the ridge gets
steeper and had a lot of snow when we were there. Thus, we returned the same route as the
ascent. Later in the summer, the ridge route may be the easier way. This route has YDS difficulty
of class 3 (Porten), with a short (depending on conditions) class 4 pitch to gain the final
summit area. This route involves glacier crossings, parties should be properly equipped and
trained, there may be substantial crevasse danger depending on the time of year. Comments:
I did this climb with my son Pål Jørgen, age 13, and my friend Arnt Flatmo.
We had fantastic weather and a superb view from the summit.