Store Skagastølstind

  • Store Skagastølstind
  • 2405 m.
  • Jotunheimen, Norway
  • Primary factor 1015 m
  • Location: North 61:27.688, East 007:52.313
  • Climbed in September 1989


How to get there: The easiest approach is from the Turtagrø hotel located near one of the hairpin switchbacks in the Sognefjell road.
Route description: From Turtagrø one hikes straight into the valley and climbs the pass called `Bandet' at the very end. There is a self serve DNT hut located at the pass. From here there are two main routes with several variations.
A: The original first ascent route followed by Slingsby. This route descends slightly from the pass and then follows a broad ledge calles Berge's Chaussé across to the relatively steep Slingsby glacier. This glacier can be quite crevassed and crampons, ice axe and rope is needed in order to climb it. Above the glacier there is a short section of easily passed rocks before a final, steep slope of snow that leads all the way to the pass `Mohns skar' between Store Skagastølstinden and Vesle Skagastølstinden. This slope can be very icy and care is needed. We belayed in the rocks at the right hand side of the snow field for the final 50 meters to the pass. This pass was named after Slingsby's companion Mohn, as he refused to continue after having reached the pass on the first ascent. Slingsby continued a solo climb to the summit. Technically, this climb is not very hard when finding the best route, but there is considerable exposure. The climb is rated a III using the Norwegian system. (Generally the easiest rating for which a rope and proper belays are advised.)
B: This route is the shorter and more popular in order to climb the summit. From the DNT hut one proceeds straight up the ridge, the climb here is scrambling requiring the use of hands, but with many large blocks, ledges and shelfs. The route gets steeper higher up and one should stay far to the left in order to avoid a section that has both exposure and requires roped belays. After this the route angels to the right and one should locate a point called `Hjørnet' (The corner), where the technical part of this climb begins. Now follows four distinct sections.
i) The first part contours around the corner (to the right) and descends a little to reach a distinct horizontal ledge.
ii) The second part follows the ledge.
iii) The third part climbs a few small sections, while continuing to the right until one arrives at a nice shelf with a distinct chimmney about 3 meters above it.
iv) The last section involves getting into the narrow chimmney (named Heftye's Renne) and climb it to the end, this is technically the most difficult point rated a IV+ using the Norwegian system.
From the end of this section the climb contiues, but now less steep and more like a scramble, until a final pitch to the very summit that is again a bit more technical.
Comments: This mountain was first climbed by William Cecil Slingsby from England, in 1876. This event is generally regarded as the beginning of Norwegian climbing and mountaineering. Slingsby climbed solo from the pass `Mohns skar' (see describtion above).