Birkenhead Peak

  • Birkenhead Peak
  • 2506 m
  • Primary factor 1781 m
  • British Columbia, Canada.
  • Location: North 50.51069, West 122.62098 (GPS on the summit.)
  • Difficulty: YDS class 3
  • Climbed August 27. 2018


See this summary for a quick overview of the peaks climbed on this trip.

How to get there:

Route description:
This is quite a nice route, you first climb Kafir Peak, the overall route makes several directional changes as it follows the high ridge connecting Kafir with Birkenhead.
The steep mountain that rises on your east side is called Kafir Peak. The route to Birkenhead Peak first traverses across this mountain.
Head up the rough remains of a road, then follow the trail towards Kafir on the connecting ridge. The trail is marked with a few cairns. Closer to the cliffs of Kafir, descend off the ridge to your left and follow the small trail that traverses the steepish slopes on the east side of Kafir Peak. This is the well known Goat Traverse. The trail is actually quite easy to follow, one should be cautious since the terrain below is steep. This traverse ends near a big cairn that marks a gully. Ascend this gully to reach more gentle terrain, the south ridge of Kafir Peak. Follow the ridge to the very summit. Traverse across three local summit humps of approximately equal height, then descend north-west to the connecting saddle with Birkenhead Peak.
The next section of the route follows the north ridge extending in an arc from Birkenhead. This ridge is generally easy to follow with a few points with (YDS) class 3 scramble. Early on, a short step is most easily circumvented to the right. The best route stays near the top of the ridge. Finally, as the ridge curves right (west) to gain Birkenhead Peak, you climb across a steeper section that may look hard from a distance. However, this small face has an easy route directly up the middle. The remaining part is now only a few steps across a broad connecting ridge.
The highest point is located before you get to the antenna station at the end of the ridge. There is also a small wooden platform for helicopter assisted maintenance of the insatllation.