• Vesttinden
  • 1709 m
  • Primary factor 225 m
  • Okstindane, Norway
  • Location: North 65.97995, E014.21585 (GPS at the summit).
  • Difficulty: YDS class 4.
  • Climbed September 18. 2021.


How to get there:
The natural starting point is the very nice DNT Rabothytta. This hut is located next to the glacier at N66.00606, E14.13949, elevation 1188 meter. In order to get there, locate the small village of Korgen on Hwy. E-6. This is just north of the long tunnel between Mosjøen and Mo i Rana. Take Hwy. 7352 east into Leirskarddalen. The road changes to dirt and climbs the hillside. Find parking near the trail head, there are signs and red T marking. The location is near 650 meter of elevation near N66.018, E14.0987.
From here, foillow the well marked trail to the Raboyhytten. This is about 5 kilometer and should take less than 2 hours.
Route description:
From the hut, head directly towards the glacier, descending slightly in order to reach the ice. Ascend a pretty gentle slope to reach the main plateau, where you turn a bit left and head directly towards the peak. Gradually bear left without loosing (much) elevation, then approach the peak just left of some visible rock. There is a crevasse here that should be crossed on a safe passage. Ascend the slightly steeper slope, keepa bit left for the best (low) angle and head for the skyline ridge going left as seen when ascending. Turn right and traverse while staying well away from the ridge line. (there is a big, steep drop just beyond the ridge.) Traverse into the rock face, descending just a little. Traverse right on the lower rocks along a pretty natural route that will get you to a pretty obvious gully that runs up to the north ridge. (That is, this gully will connect to the ridge well to the right of the summit as seen from below.) Scramble up this gully (YDS class 3) to reach the main ridge. Turn left and continue uphill on slightly easier terrain. You will then arrive at the crux, a single class 4 move where some stepping stones have been placed on the ground to make the uphill move somewhat easier. There is a single very good handhold on top, but this may initially be just out of reach. Above, the slope is more gentle and the climb ends with a short walk to a nice summit.
This was the annual fall meeting of the Board of Erling Bjørstad's Stiftelse. DNT came with Dag Terje, Anne-Marie and Tor. Berit was elected to the board just this August, while Thomas also served last year.
We had hiked up to Rabothytta the previous (Friday) day and enjoyed a nice dinner prepared by Dag Terje. The weather promised to be better than the original forecast. The sky was filled with Northern Light as we prepared for bedtime. Today, Saturday we should first have a mountain trip, then the meeting of the board. We all put on crampons shortly after leaving the hut around 1000. The glacier was essentially crevasse free. There was no snow layer on top, a very safe glacier hike. We soon set course for Vesttinden. It looked like a good route to ascend to the snow ridge that extended north-east.
We gained elevation on the snow slope, avoiding one pretty large crevasse before arriving at the base of the rock pyramid. I spotted a gully that appeared to offer a pretty non-technical route. A short scramble brought us into this gully and moving up was just as easy as promised. Higher up, frozen water on the rock surface called for care. Then, on the main summit ridge, a vertical step came into view. Previous climbers had built a small "platform" (stepping-stones) in order to start from a slightly higher point. I got an uneccessary awkward start and struggled a bit with getting up, arm strength is below expectation. We then proceeded the last few meter to the summit. Very nice views all around There is a pretty vertical slope on the east side.
Since some in the group felt slightly insecure about going down, we made a solid top anchor, our 60 meter rope would cover the full descent. People could then descend using their prussik attached to the rope - good practice for everyone! We put the crampons back on and prepared for the glacier walk back to Rabothytta.
The return hike followed more or less our route of ascent. We were back at the Rabot hut around 1400. Thanks to everybody for making this a very nice hike and a good preparation for our board meeting.