Monte Pisanino

  • Monte Pisanino
  • 1947 m
  • Prominence 1167 m
  • Difficulty: YDS class 3.
  • Location: North 44.13417, East 10.21357, (GPS)
  • Climbed: June 27, 2022


How to get there:
This trailhead is next to a rifugio (often closed?) located in a small mountain valley at location N44.13434, E10.19759, elevation about 1070 meter. SP-51 and SP-58 both connects to a final, narrow road that leads to this trailhead. One should be aware that big trucks that carry rocks are very frequent on this road since (unfortunately!) there is a quarry in the mountain slope opposite of Pisanino at the end of this valley.
A quick summary of the peaks climbed in Italy 2022.
Start from the parking area immediately before the rifugio building. A little looking around should reveal a small, unmarked climbers trail in the grass that heads across to the mountain slope. Follow this path, it is helpful and will get you up the pretty steep grass slope, a vertical gain of about 400 meter. There are some small areas of rock that this trail avoids by going right. You should get to location N44.13877, E10.20385, elevation neaar 1400 meter. This is a pretty distinct, small plateau and one will see a well defined ridge line extending uphill from this point.
From here, follow the ridge uphill, staying on or slightly on the right hand side. There is (YDS) class 3 scrambling along this ridge. Higher up, the ridge steepens, one may continue on the very top of the ridge crossing a large, slab like rock (with cracks), then ascend more steeply, or make a by-pass out to the right (a fair way), then ascend as one traverses back towards the main ridge. This may be the crux area of the ascent.
The route then reaches a small summit point at location N44.13817, E10.21030, elevation near 1800 meter. You have reached the main north-south ridge, the hardest part of the climb is done. From here, the route continues south along the top of the ridge, nothing difficult, however the ridge is quite narrow in various spots. You will reach a single, steeper step. One may climb up along the rocky ridge, climb a small gully immediately left or bypass this point (steepish terrain) on the right hand side, possibly also on the left. Once above this point, the remaining part of the ridge is quite easy. You arrive directly to the highest summit.
There is a blue marked route from the summit back down into the valley. This route is marked with the normal red/white stripes after merging with other routes part-way back. This route provides a way to climb Pisanino that never exceeds (YDS) class 2 in difficulty (ie. no scambling/climbing). If using this route to climb the peak, then continue into the valley (from the parking) and follow the signed and marked route numbered 178. This will connect with the blue marked summit route.
There are a couple of summits points as one proceeds along the ridge, but these are all lower than the main summit.
I started at 0900 and reached the main ridge near 1800 meter shortly after 1100. On my way to the summit, a single gust of strong wind blue my hat off and down below the steepish cliffs that formed the narrow ridge that I was about to pass. I decided that I wanted my hat back. It took significant time to first backtrack to a point from where I could safely descend, then traverse the terrain below the ridge (still steepish), and search for my hat. I eventually did find it, then climbed back up on the ridge before completing the step, then arriving at the summit near 1200 noon.
I left the summit around 1215, descending along the blue marked route. This first descends a pretty long gully, then shifts across to the east (eft when descending) side of the main crest. After quite a bit of traversing as well as descending, this route finally climbs back up and crosses the main ridge in a col named Foce di Cardeto at location 44.12212, 10.21428, elevation near 1640 meter. From here, the trail, marked as trail no 178, descends back into the valley.
I was back down by my car around 1500 after a nice hike descending along this normal route for ascending Pisanino.