• Svarttinden
  • 767 m
  • Primary factor 767 m
  • Lofoten, Norway
  • Gimsøy island HP.
  • Location: North 68.27158, East 014.22579 (GPS)
  • Climbed September 11. 2020
  • Difficulty: YDS class 2+


How to get there:
In Lofoten, locate the bridge that connects Austvågøya with Gimsøy. There is a turnoff to a parking area just as you turn off the bridge on the Gimsøy side. Location N68.26255, E014.24146, elevation about 5 meter.
Cross the Hwy. and head directly uphill. The terrain is nice to walk. A good line would follow the terrain and gradually move a bit right as you ascend, then traverse left and gain a distinct ridge somewhere above 200 meter of elevation, near location N68.26466, E014.23367. From here, continue up this ridge bypass rock outcrops on the left. Small sections of (animal?) trail can be seen and they are convenient to use. Continue up the ridge until you see a broad grass area that climbs more left, climb this to arrive near N68.26781, E014.22508, elevation already near 575 meter. Contour left from here, entering a big gully that forks near N68.26793, E014.22452, elevation 580 meter, this is only about 30 meter from the previous waypoint.
There are two choices here, both good and interesting. You may continue left up the (main) gully and climb to a very distinct narrow col with near vertical rock on either side. Alternatively, take the steep gully that forks right and follow a small climbers trail that will gain the main crest. If you head for the narrow col (you will not see it before moving a bit further), then as you reach it, do not descend on the opposite side, but follow a small, but visible climbers path that just turns the corner and ascends towards the main crest. The two routes will again merge.
Continue to follow a pretty obvious path, the route is enjoyable as it advances sometimes on the right, sometimes on the left of the main ridge. At one point (on the left), the route descends a few meter and passes through a narrow crack. Further along, you will enter a wide grassy slope that again climbs to the top of the ridge. From here, the remaining distance is short as the route on the right side of the ridge, again climbs to the main ridge and gains the small summit marked by a cairn that is just a pile of rocks.
I woke up a bit later than normal and still felt the long and strenuous yesterday in my body. First, I considered declaring this a rest day - several tasks to do from my Lofoten "home office". Eventually, I decided that a short walk would be good and that Svarttinden could be a reasonable objective. I drove there early afternoon, it was still raining.
I left my car at 1350, the rain had stopped. It was a steep and long hill, but I made good progress and the terrain was soft and easy to walk. I had no route description and the higher part of the mountain was hidden in the cloud. Route finding would indeed be interesting. I gained the big gully, the right fork did not look very appealing, so I went left. The col that came into view, made me smile - very distinct indeed.
Now, on the main crest, I noticed a small trail that just turned the corner (right) and continued uphill. This was indeed a good route. A small trail would now guide me all the way to the summit - a very nice route. Never very exposed, but certainly running along in steep terrain. I went through the narrow passage (photo when returning), and gained the summit at 1530. Limited view as the peak was wrapped in a cloud. I descended after a 10 minute break retracing my route, but then picking a tiny trail that forked left assuming it would offer an alternative return. Much to my delight, I now descended the gully that I had considered (but rejected) on ascent. Pretty soon, again below the clouds to see the bridge from where I started. The grassy slope below was easy to descend and I freached my car at 1650, making it a 3 hour excursion.