Location: North 61:10.439, East 005:10.385 (GPS at the summit)
Climbed October 21, 2007.
Difficulty: YDS class 3 (Nipestien).
How to get there:
See the Lifjell description. Route description:
The normal way is outlined under the Lifjell description.
A steep, but more direct route, called Nipestien is descriped in the following.
This route requires the use of two fixed ropes, even using these, the difficulty is (YDS) class 3.
Follow the trail from the parking as described under Lifjell.
Well below the steeper terrain that can be seen higher up, you arrive at a trailfork with well
made signs. The trail that continues straight ahead is the main trail. It is important to note that
you can reach the summit of Gygrekjeften along this trail. In fact, this is a (YDS) class 2 route to
the summit and should be considered the normal route. The signs, however, does not reveal this. The sign says
that Gygrekjeften is the right fork of the trail and that this trail is called Nipestien.
As one branch right, the trail becomes smaller,
it may be hard to see as it crosses a couple of (short) steeper uphill sections. Continue
uphill, as the trail will take you to a point directly
under the steeper cliffs above. As you reach
the base, there is an easy to see sign posted on the rock. This sign, in three languages, warns about
a dangerous trail ahead. Perhaps, it more properly should have been placed at the trailfork?
A rope with knots is hanging down the rock. This pitch is the steepest and most difficult to climb
without the aid from the rope on the Nipestien route. The pitch has few places for hands and feet.
It is slippery when wet and not at all recommended under winter conditions. Also, if you have your dog
along on the hike, then do not take this trail! The easiest way up is to trust the rope and walk on the rock
while leaning a bit out and thus loading the rope. There is plenty of space at the ledge on top. The next
move right is a step that is easy, but unsecured. Then follows a second rope, this is guiding up a
crack where the climbing is easier, with several holds for feet and hands. The third pitch is also easy,
there is no rope here, but you see that there used to be one from remains near the top.
At this point, be aware that the route makes a sharp left in order to proceed across and locate a line
that leads more or less directly upwards. There is another line that proceeds up in the direction you
just came, but this is not the route. The rest of the route runs uphill along a pretty obvious line.
It is steep, but not too difficult. At the very top, exit left across some rock and find easier terrain
leading to a small col with a good sized cairn serving to mark the route of descent. The rest of the route
to the summit of Gygrekjeften
is well cairned and easy to follow. There are no more scrambling required.
See the Lifjell entry.