Location: North 69:51.025, East 020:16.651 (GPS at the summit)
Difficulty: YDS class 4
Climbed on June 6, 2008.
How to get there:
Here is a quick summary of the peaks climbed during this T8 trip.
From Tromsø, drive E-8 to Fagernes and continue left on Hwy. 91 to Breivikeidet where
a ferry will take you across to Svensby. (check the schedule.)
From Svensby, go left and drive 10 kilometer north to Jægervatn. Fork right and contine
another 4 kilometer where you fork right and continue 20 more kilometer to Nord-Lenangen.
Make a sharp right here and then another right in order to cross the bridge that spans the
fjord Nordlenangen. Turn right after crossing the bridge and drive a short stretch before
parking. This is the trailhead, we camped at the beach
slightly further south at location
N69:52.831, E020:11.344, elevation 2 meter.
From the end of the road, follow the fjord south. It is pretty easy to walk as long as
one stays on or near the beach. Continue slightly further than the end of the fjord.
You will walk by a few cabins in this area. Begin a gradual ascent before reaching the
main creek, Tverrbakkelva, that comes down the slope. The slope gets gradually steeper
as you move from 300 to 400 meter of elevation, but there is never any difficulties.
Higher up, you enter a more distinct valley and the slope is more gentle. Continue up until
you reach the 931 meter saddle just south of Tverrbakktinden, location N69:50.597, E020:16.311.
Turn left and ascend the south ridge of Tverrbakktinden. This is a broad and easy ridge in the
lower part. Higher up, steeper rocks appear. One may climb this first obstacle directly, or
traverse right along a somewhat narrow ledge, then climb up in somewhat more protected and easier
rock (YDS class 4). Above this point, there is one more step
in the ridge. Approach carefully as
the snow ridge below may be corniced on your right side. Climb directly up (YDS class 4),
technically, this is the crux of the climb. Finally, a somewhat smaller rock must be climbed
in order to step onto the summit. This approach is quite sensational. The summit ridge has a somewhat
broader section a few meter below the summit along its west ridge. Comments:
I did this climb with my friend Bjørn Hafskjold. We had attended the NOTUR conference
and drove to the trailhead after its conclusion.
We camped on the beach and had dinner before going to bed quite early.
The next morning, we were on the trail by 0515. The saddle south of the mountain was reached
by 0915, and the summit by 1045. The weather was somewhat overcast and as we ascended the south
ridge we were in the fog. It turned out that we climbed straight through a cloud, emerging on the
upper side with the white summit above us against a very deep blue sky. An incredible moment
to be cherished and remembered.
Higher up, we ran into rock climbing terrain. We had left the rope and all but a few slings
behind, fortunately, the difficulties stayed within our abilities to climb without any belays.
The ridge becomes narrow just before the summit
and the arrival via this route is quite nice,
one moment you climb a cracked step of rock, the next you carefully step across a narrow ridge
and directly onto the summit.
We enjoyed the good views all around, Store Lenangstinden looks very impressive from
this viewpoint. Lyngen is just an ocean of sharp peaks, there is always another peak to
study. After 30 minutes we started our return climb and by 13:30 (2:15 return time), we were
back at our beach camp.