Location: North 69:27.144, East 019:10.634 (GPS on the summit)
Climbed June 11, 2004.
How to get there:
From the city of Tromsø, drive south along Hwy. E-8,
passing through Fagernes after 24 kilometer. Continue along the fjord,
then into Lavangsdalen. Cross the distinct creek that comes down
Mellomdalen from your left side, slightly further along,
locate a small turnout on the left side of the
road at GPS location north 69:27.685, east 019:14.345. Pull over and
park here. The elevation is about 65 meter. Route description:
Looking across the road, you will immediately see the first part of the
route. The mountain is steeper both further right and further left, a
broad, somewhat uneven slope that climbs right to left should be visible
right in front of you. Cross the road, immediately the first challenge
appears, there is a river that must be crossed. This river is about
4 meter wide and flows gently, it is certainly at least one meter deep. Fortunately,
there may be fallen trees that can assist a crossing, otherwise you must
prepare for a possibly cold beginning of your hike.
Head straight up the slope avoiding the first cliffs either left or right.
Higher up, climb towards your right side until you can turn left into
a broad, but distinct gully that continues uphill and tops out at the
(local) horizon. When we did this climb, this gully had contiuous snow from
about 500 meter of elevation. Stay on the left side, as there may be a
possibility of avalanches coming down the steep slope from Tverrbotnfjellet (1299m) on the
right side. Continue up this gully until a distinct saddle at location
north 69:27.612, east 019:11.755. The elevation at this point is 813 meter.
The sharp ridge of Tverrbotnfjellet heads up to your right, the creek Tverrelva
running north-west towards Andersdalen
starts at this saddle. Looking across to the left side of the saddle you
will see the summit of Stortind. The peak is the leftmost high point with a
jagged ridge coming down on its left side. A small glacier higher and opposite
of your saddle provides the key to the route. A snowfield above it extends all
the way to a saddle that breaks the ridgeline above you. From your 813 meter saddle, contour
slighly left and climb to the glacier near some rocks (see the picture below).
Be aware of possible crevasses, after an initial, somewhat steeper slope, the
slope is more gentle and you may head directly for the lowest (right side)
point in the saddle above you. There may be a cornice at the very top, when we
made this climb, the cornice did not extend across the rightmost part of
the saddle, thus providing easy access. Later in the summer, the slope may
be hard and icy and crampons and an ice axe should be carried. From this high
saddle, one should turn left and climb the final ridge to the summit.
Beware of overhanging cornices, keep a safe distance to the cliffs on
your left side. This ridge is broad and one can easily stay well away from
any potential danger. The summit itself forms a ridge several meter wide, continue to
observe the dangerous cornice that forms over the vertical cliff on your left. Return along the
same route. The difficulty of this route never exceeds (YDS) class 2 when following this
route, the snow slopes are moderate, however one may need crampons and an ice axe later
in the summer. Similarly, climbers should be aware of (and prepared for) possible
crevasses in the small glacier below the key saddle. Comments:
I did this climb with my friend Jacko Koster. It was an evening hike after
the NOTUR conference and Jacko was leaving at 0700 the next morning. We left the
car at 1730, made the summit after 3 hours in deep snow, at 2030. The descent took
1.5 hours, so by 2200 we were back at the car heading back to Tromsø.
Jacko did a great job breaking the trail all the way up. I continued later in the
night in order to establish a base camp for an attempt on
Hamperokken, 1404 meter, the next morning.