• Memaurtinden
  • 1332 m
  • Primary factor 844 meter
  • Location: North 66.97174, East 13.84861 (from Map)
  • Romsdal, Norway
  • Difficulty: (YDS) class 3
  • Climbed August 9. 2020.


How to get there:
From Bodø drive towards Fauske, but turn right ont Hwy. 17 (coastal hwy. south) shortly after crossing a big bridge. The turnoff is signed for Saltstraumen as well as town located further south in Norway.
Follow Hwy. 17 south, you will pass into Gildeskål, then cross a bridge and drive south with the fjord Holmsundfjorden on your right. The fjord narrows as you near its southern end, it is now called Sundsfjorden. Immediately, before the road starts to curve right (at the very end of the fjord) leave Hwy. 17 going left. Keep left and follow a construction road that climbs the hillside. This road levels as it crosses a hilltop, about 530 meter of elevation. You will arrive at a road fork, take the left branch and drive until you find parking near (above) a small power plant building. A big water pipeline is coming down the mountain side. Park here, this location is near N66.95135, E014.22583. The elevation is about 340 meter.
Route description:
A long staircase heads uphill parallel to the pipeline. There may be some warning signs, one should only proceed when prepared to deal with steep mountain terrain. The stairs will take you uphill to a wooden exit platform going right. Be aware that some steps are damaged as well as missing near the top.
Leave the exit platform and follow a well marked trail uphill to gain more gentle terrain. The trail then turns left and follows the natural, broad passage that will get you to the 700 meter level connecting to the small 739m summit having the lake Litle Sokumvatnet on your right hand side. Traverse this hill all the way across, descending too early to the right hand side is really not an option.
The next task is to hike across, generally north-east, about 3 kilometer to the south side of the twin lakes called Hattvatnan. This crossing is not easy since the terrain has many distinct gullys running north-south. In order to avoid too many inconvenient ups and downs one should most likely head quite a bit north in the beginning, then more east across to the lakes. Contour around the lakes (east then north), then continue north-east up the small, but distinct valley that should be followed all the way to the small glacier that is located on the south side of the peak. This location is approximately at N66.9944, E14.3276, elevation about 1100 meter.
Turn left and ascend along the edge of the glacier, cutting directly across to the main south ridge of the peak a bit higher up. Continue to follow the ridge, but stay on the glacier for easier movement. Continue as high as convenient. When exiting the glacier you may then be directly below a steeper section of rock. Find (easy YDS class 3) a scramble way to the plateau above. Fiannly, walk the very gentle last section to the summit cairn.
The forecast was not very good, clouds and rain showers. I drove from the DNT hut Gjælentunet and was parked at the trailhead by 0900. The staircase had a couple of signs warning against using them. I had no idea about any alternate route and started uphill on what looked like a very nice set of stairs. Near the top, a section of the staircase was all destroyed. It looked worse than it was, a bit of careful scrambling brought me back on the last section of concrete steps.
The hike was quite nice from here and really no issues until I was off the ridge and needed to pick my way across to the two small twin lakes. I had rain and fog with very limited visibility - not perfect. Still, my route across was actually pretty nice. Careful navigation brought me up the small, narrow valley. A lot of snow here and generally easy walking. I was happy to reach the glacier and put on crampons. With my ice axe in one hand, I proceeded uphill until just below a rather steep, but short section of rock.
It was already 1345 when I stopped at the summit cairn. It would be a long day. The terrain and the (lack of good) weather had combined to make progress slow. I stayed around about 15 minutes, then descended along the same route. Back near the twin lakes, I decided to try a route staying mre left (closer to the Sokumvatnet lake). This turned out to be a mistake, the terrain was rougher and this section definitely took longer on my return. I was happy when ascending the 739 meter hill, knowing that the rest of the route would be pretty easy. Passing the section of the staircase that did not have any steps required care, but was not difficult. I was back at my car by 1800, so a 9 hour trip, not bad given the less than favorable conditions.