• Marsfjället
  • 1590 m.
  • Primary factor 1000 m.
  • lappland, Sweden
  • Location: North 65.10656, East 015.37972 (GPS at the summit)
  • Difficulty: (YDS) class 2.
  • climbed November 16. 2012.


How to get there:
This mountain is located in Sweden, east of the Børgefjellet national park in Norway. A good trailhead is the small community Marsliden. One can drive there in about 7 hours from Trondheim, Norway. In summer, take E-6 about 250 kilometer north, then drive east to Sweden on Hwy. 362 (closed in winter). A longer alternative (winter) is to take Hwy. 74 east from E-6 before you get to Grong (on E-6).
Starting further north in Norway, one can take E-12 east from Mo i Rana, then drive via Dikanäs and onwards to Marsliden. This is about 280 kilometer.
In Marsliden, I would recommend to get in touch with Ulf Kanon, his phone number is +46 (0)705217630. He runs a small cafe and rents nice cabins at a very affordable rate.
The location of his cabins is N65.02809, E015.36901, elevation about 570 meter.
Route description:
From Marsliden, locate the marked (with big poles) route that leads north. There are possibly two routes that will take you through the vegetation belt, then merging above treeline. One route starts from behind the cabins mentioned in this report. The route will go just east (right) of the very distinct Ropentjakke (1144m) that you see from Marsliden.
Continue to follow the marked route as it crosses more flat terrain in order to climb (short, but steeply) to the col at 990 meter, just south of the 1304 meter peak named Ortsen. Descend about 50 vertical meter, locate a trail fork. The marked route runs further downhill, while the route to Marsfjället turns north. This route is marked by some cairns, they may not be visible in winter. Continue north and cross a shallow valley, then gain the west ridge of Marsfjället. Turn east and climb this very broad and quite gentle ridge all the way to the summit. The summit has a very tall cairn. There are also a couple of big poles near the summit.
I did this climb together with Åke Dahlen. We arrived in Marsliden the night before and stayed in a very nice cabin that we rented from Mr. Ulf Kanon. The next morning, we started skiing directly from the cabin at 0700. We quickly located the big trail markers (poles with a cross on top) across the field just behind the cabins and skied up this path to treeline. We had to break trail and the temperature was close to zero centigrades, thus we struggled a bit with unfavorable skiing conditions. Snow easily stuck to the skis and we needed to scrape this off repeatedly.
Above treeline, the marked path took us through the very distinct pass separating peaks 1181 (south) and 1304 (north). We contoured more north and skied into the clouds at about 1100 meter of elevation. From here, we continued uphill with almost no visibility. Just as we came above 1500 meter and only had a very short distance remaining, we also ran into strong wind. Arriving at the summit at 1130, this was no place to hang around. I took a quick photo of Åke next to the tall cairn, before we started our descent.
Conditions improved as we again came below the cloud cover and we had an easy ski back down to our cabin, arriving there at 1430 - before dark!.