Geittinden

  • Geittinden
  • 1556 m.
  • Primary factor 1111 m.
  • Nordland, Norway
  • Location: North (GPS at the summit)
  • Difficulty: (YDS) class 2.
  • Attempted November 11. 2012.

Information:

How to get there:
From Mo i Rana, drive about 38 kilometer south on E-6 to the small community Korgen. Make certain to find Hwy. 806, the turnoff is after you have passed the Gas station and then driving under an overpass. Turn left onto Hwy 806 here and drive 22 kilometer on Hwy. 806 to Bleikvasslia. Turn right here, the sign says Hwy. 73 and Hattfjelldal. Continue 18.5 kilometer from Bleikvasslia. The road descends gently to a low point, just at the end of a narrow part, Sørbukta, of lake Tustervatnet (on your right hand side). This is just south of Storneshaugan (463m). There is parking on the left side of the road. Park here, location N65.79229, E013.88529, elevation about 400 meter.
Route description:
The route runs north on the west side of lake Tustervatnet. There are several pretty open areas among the trees. A number of creeks have carved local (tiny) valleys that must be crossed, no problem really. The cliffs above on your left are pretty rugged. Continue until they end, at this point descend slightly, then climb a short, steep hill in order to gain the terrain above. Cross the small valley with the creek from lake 769. Continue uphill on the slope that climbs to the area just west of lake 965.
This description will be completed later (when I climb the final section).
Comments:
After a very successful climb of Ølfjellet yesterday, I drove to Mo i Rana and enjoyed a bit of luxury at the nice Rica Meyergården hotel. I left around 0700 and my goal was to start not too long after 0800. However, this was not to be. I turned left off E-6 in Korgen and did not realize that I took Hwy. 322 into Leirskarddalen instead of Hwy. 806. This was 20 kilometer of extra (wasted) driving. I finally arrived at the trailhead, but the time turned 0900 before I was ready to ski. The weather was completely overcast, a light brezze, but overall pretty good.
The snow was wet and breaking trail was fairly cumbersome. Still, I made reasonable progress as I gradually climbed towards the steeper rocks above. From here, one can see back to the trailhead with the car. My hope was to turn the corner at the north end. Arriving there, things looked a bit worse, but after a short descent I found a steepish, but short snow slope that got me to more level ground.
Another really bad problem, my skins (under the skis) accumulated enormous amounts of sticky, wet snow. It did not help to scrape them clean. I took the skins off and applied some blue-red wax. It slipped or got equally sticky. The temperature had increased and the air was full of a mix between rain and snow. This is about as bad as it can get.
As I crossed higher, with lake 769 down to my left, the terrain was kind of rough. I had white-out conditions and ran across a couple of smaller snow drifts without seeing them until I was just there. Bad, especially if coming back down with beginning darkness. I stopped, to consider my options. The time was 1200, it had taken me 3 hours to get here at elevation 860 meter. I had 2.5 kilometer left with 700 vertical meter, some of it quite steep, crampons for sure. The overall weather situation was getting worse. After a careful evaluation, I decided to turn back. I reasoned that climbing the steep north ridge of Geittinden with no visibility would be difficult. Too bad, just the driving would be about 350 kilometer with no summit. Yes, distances are considerable. I would need to retun to the Lønsdal DNT hut where I would meet Åke tomorrow morning. I skied back without any trouble, hitting the car at 1345, ie. the return trip took 1:30, just half the ascent (breaking trail) time. I shall be back.

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